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A Rough Ride in Bowland

A circuit from Slaidburn with 10 miles off road

sunny 20 °C

There are several easy rides to be posted here but this is not one of them. A 31 mile tour of the wildest parts of the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with a third of the route off road and 2 high passes makes for a fantastic day out but make no mistake - it's a tough one!

From the free car park behind Slaidburn village hall, I rode through the small village centre - I'd stayed at the Youth Hostel here so the stone built houses and tiny village square were familiar - and turned right alongside the pub soon leaving the village behind. A short way up this lane there is a sign on the left for Pain Hill Farm - I wondered whether this was a sign of things to come but if this was Pain Hill it was fairly short and relatively painless to ride up. The route turns right up a lane called woodhouse lane and follows it around past several farm entrances drawing steadily higher towards the vast swell of the high moorlands ahead.

The end of the tarmac is marked by a gate and beyond this I turned sharp right along a gently rising track of broken concrete. I was happily riding under a false sense of security blissfully unaware of what lay ahead.

The track gradually swung back around to the left and lost the concrete surface becoming a rough and stony track that climbed across the heather moors. Ahead lay a vast swathe of lonely open hills into which the way led unerringly while across the valley to my right I spotted a deserted stone hut and an ancient sheepfold. The presence of the building simply accentuated the isolation.

My route now descended towards a river which was crossed by a single stone span which was adorned with a sign declaring it a weak bridge. These words do not encourage one to linger mid-stream and I was soon on the far side riding up the hardest section so far as the track rapidly veered towards mountaineering territory. This in fact turned out to be the toughest part of the whole route with large rocks and a loose surface conspiring to unseat any unwary rider on a gradient that must have been 20%. The grassy edge of the path here proved to offer the best chances of remaining on my bike.

The track soon became more rideable and after passing an old stone farmhouse on the left I stopped for some lunch at an obvious and comfortable rock by the path. Beyond this rock the track does become rough again for a while with large stones but it never quite reaches the bike wrecking level of the bit after the bridge and I was soon on the (relatively) level ground that marks the top of the Bowland Fells - a high moorland plataeu in places 500m above sea level but which still looks nothing like a forest on account of the lack of trees. The name of the Forest of Bowland comes from deer forest which was basically a hunting reserve in days gone by. Ahead lay the rough top of Ward's Stone - the highest point of the region and I had a sense of crossing the summit of Salter Fell and heading down the other side though there was no clear pass and the descent doesn't really start properly until after the gate is reached.

After the gate views opened out more the further I went with the wilderness-like landscape to the West forming a wide and deep valley through the hills leading towards the West Lancashire plains. The track this side is called Hornby Road and runs more or less north westwards through the hills though there is little chance of getting lost as long as you ignore the few tracks branching off.

Soon a beautiful vista began to widen ahead with the green lowlands rising steadily up to the Penninesin the East and the Yorkshire 3 Peaks dominating the view; Whernside the highest, Ingleborough with its familiar flat top and Pen y Ghent around to the right. Ahead lay the fields and woodlands of the Lune Valley backed by the jagged skyline of the Lake District mountains far off in the haze. It was towards these distant views that I rode - a long effortless freewheel that more than made up for the hardships endured in getting up here.

This section involved one or two rough parts but soon I was on a wide swathe of grass like a fairway on a golf course that led swiftly down between slopes of heather. The fairway comparison may be an exaggeration but there were no rocks or big bumps to negotiate and it was simply a case of relaxing in the saddle and enjoying the big skies and far off views.

Presently after a minor rough section I was suddenly back in civilisation - a gate led to a tarmac road and there was a farmhouse in front - High Salter it's called. Here a fast descent and a steep but short climb led me to a right turn leading steeply down through woodland to the old stonebuilt village of Wray.

The return route after turning right at the first junction in Wray leads along a pleasant quiet road that follows the valley floor towards Lower Bentham. After crossing the River Hindburn turn right - this is the main road direction anyway - and climb up again passing the farm of Four Score Acres on the left. The name is clearly visible. A mile or so after here turn right up the hill and follow the signs to Slaidburn rather than go to Lower Bentham which would be further to ride. If you do miss the turn and end up there, just folow for Slaidburn anyway.

On this road I met no traffic but had cause to stop and get my camera out in a hurry when I spotted a tiny roe deer stood stock still in the field by the road. Needless to say the deer ran off before I could take its photo. I soon came to a crossroads and followed the right turn to Slaidburn which led over the infamous Cross O' Greets Pass which at 468 metres or over 1500 feet is one of the major challenges on such bike races as the Tour of Britain.

The climb to the summit is gradual with the steepest section at the end though if you had gone via Lower Bentham the start would have been long and steep - this way it was more gradual. The views improve with altitude and the summit - unlike Salter fell - is a clear ridge leading back to the southern side of the Bowland Fells. The last bit was tough though near the end of the day and it was a relief to be speeding like the wind down the far side.

There is however a sting in the tail to this route - after the descent from Cross O' Greets, you cross a river and enter woods where the road abruptly climbs up again. This last hill is steep but not too long and once you are up it is downhill virtually all the way to Slaidburn to complete the circuit of the Forest of Bowland 31 miles later to end a hard but enjoyable and varied ride.

The off road sections are my favourite but a mountain bike is recommended for these - my hybrid fared OK but a road bike would struggle. It isn't a graded mountain bike trail but it would be a red route if it was. There are hills throughout - not just the 2 main passes so if you see riding up hills as a challenge you'll love this but if you only like cycling on the flat - don't do it!

Pete Buckley July 2010

Essentials >>> How far is it? 31 miles >>> What's it like? Hilly with some rough parts - a third off road >>> Start and finish in Slaidburn village

More routes in the itable of contents below

Posted by PeteB 06:35 Archived in England Tagged me mountains bicycle cycling mountain_biking Comments (0)

Riding the Big Country Trail

58km through the forests of Galloway

sunny 19 °C

It seemed to have rained for days but not today - the sun shone warmly and we'd made a good start along the forest road. With little effort we maintained something over 40 km/h as the summer breeze brought out the scents from the surrounding woodland and meadow. The gradient was a gentle downhill with our momentum carrying us over the small uphill sections of the single track lane as we sped from light to shade under the trees. I was glad of our good start because it wasn't always going to be this easy.

The Big Country Trail is a 58km circular mountain bike trail from Glen Trool in the Galloway Forest Park of south west Scotland and I was riding it today with Josh, my 11 year old son. The route is maintained by the Forestry Commission as one of their "7 Stanes" mountain bike trails and follows partly off road trails with some sections on quiet roads such as the one we were on now. The main challenge of riding the Big Country Track is one of hills and distance rather than technical sections.

Our first challenge came not with a climb or rough descent though but in the small town of Minnigaff just outside Gatehouse of Fleet. If there was a sign for the Big Country Route - marked in purple here - we missed it and ended up on a busier road - the B7079. at least it had a cycle path at the side and we soon were able to take a left onto the A712 signposted New Galloway which was again quiet and began to climb steadily into the Galloway Hills which rose invitingly ahead. A look at the map revealed that we could rejoin our route a little further on. I wanted to get to grips with the off road but Josh preferred the road if it wasn't busy. It would mean that we would end up doing extra distance but it would be less difficult riding.

Gatehouse of Fleet was now left well behind and the forest pressed in on both sides of the road. We had been climbing steadily though not at a hard gradient and after we passed one of the entrances to Kirroughtree Forest on the right we were able to leave the road. A track led off into the woods on our left and climbed steeply upwards bending briefly back to the left - the way we'd come - before turning back on course through the trees. Here we met another track the came up from the left to join us.

This was where we'd have come out if we'd not gone wrong at Minnigaff where we should have turned left at the end of the forest road. Here we passed a sign declaring this to be the Old Edinburgh Road. I found it quite fascinating that before the tarmac road, this track was the main route north through these mountains. The horse drawn coaches would rattle along here presumably persued by the odd highwayman! It would have been remote country to travel through in those days.

We stopped for an early lunch in a wide clearing with a view of the hill called Cairnsmore of Fleet. We sat on a pile of logs that had been felled and apart from the stony track and signs of logging there was no other sign of human activity here. I'd have thought that on a day like this there would have been other cyclists or walkers but no - we had it all to ourselves.

Onwards again and past the tiny isolated Loch of the Lowes bordered by heather and patches of trees overhanging the still water. The rough track surfaced with stones had been mainly downhill since lunch but now it climbed again in a couple of short but steep ascents. The bumpy track is harder to get any momentum going so these hills were harder than a similar climb on the road and my lower gears were tested for the first time.

Josh decided after falling off again - more due to lack of speed than obstacles - that he'd rather be on the road so we decided to return to it instead of the short cut over Poultrybuie Hill and visit Clatteringshaws Loch. For now though it was the track which wound through some wonderfully remote country - no sign of houses or cars just a vastness of heather and trees through which we rode steadily.

The track went down again and became a little less rough and we were able to make a little more speed as we reached a second small lake - The Black Loch - where the short steep way turned off to the left. That's the proper route for the Big Country Track but Josh still preferred to head for the road. Besides we had some unavoidable mountain bike tracks to finish off with. Another couple of miles past the Black Loch on relatively level track brought us within sight of the A712 once again and we rejoined the smooth tarmac. There was hardly any traffic so I didn't object to leaving the track and we at once doubled our speed. A gentle gradient took us higher before a 60 km/h descent nearly made us overshoot the turn off to the left. The signpost was for National Cycle Route 7 again and the Glen Trool Off Road Route. Here a narrow tarmac lane passed the Clatteringshaws Dam and set off back towards the hills.

The fox hadn't spotted us - he trotted along the side of the road ahead occasionally stopping to sniff the grassy verge in the same way that a dog would. Then he must have scented or heard us as he was off into the bushes by the roadside as we approached.

The road which had been gradually gaining height since leaving Clatteringshaws Dam soon descended a long hill to meet the track coming over Poultrybuie Hill from the Black Loch where a right hander at the bottom took us off the tarmac again. The rough gravel and stones of the mountain bike track led on through the heather and trees into the wilderness that lay between here and the end of the Big Country Track at Glen Trool.

Steep climbs that tested our strength - it's best to keep going rather than stop on this rough ground - were followed by quick bone jarring descents though always we climbed higher until at something over 1000 feet - the map shows 318 metres - we came within sight of the remote Loch Dee. Away beyond the mountains rose in lines above a vast upland plateau. The very names of the hills and rivers here fired the imagination - Rig of the Jarkness, Curleywee Hill, the Rhinns of Kells, Silver Flowe - they sounded like places in a fairy tale and the landscape suited them. It was a wonderful spot.

The pass to Glen Trool could be seen clearly ahead not too far off and we set off again. The going was a bit easier now first heading down past a bothy (hut) built for fishermen on Loch Dee before a fairly easy climb to the pass itself. Here we ate the rest of our food by the Stane which is a large polished stone bearing carved runes - not ancient but placed by the Forestry Commission to mark one of their 7 mountain bike areas in Southern Scotland known as the 7 Stanes.

We now rode through open heathery country below rough crags as we began our desent to Glen Trool. Josh went ahead at a furious pace - his bike is more suited to the off road tracks than mine and for all his claiming to prefer the road he made a good descent of the track back into the forest. That was until he stopped at a turn off, looked round and fell off his bike again! I think I was unkind to laugh but descending the rough trail at speed uncscathed then falling off a stationary bike - I ask you!

At a more leisurely pace we completed the steep forest trail to cross the bridge at the bottom. Here we were passed by 2 mountain bikers - surprisingly the first we had seen on the whole route. We followed them along the roughest section of the route so far. Large rocks and tree roots joined the effort to unseat us and the mountain bikers - their machines more suited to such terrain - disappeared ahead into the trees.

The Big country Route had a sting in the tail. The track now climbed back up at the steepest gradient we'd met all day staying rough so it was hard to get going. With the last of our strength we reached Bruce's Stone which is one of the monuments around here to Scottish hero Robert the Bruce and also the start point for the route to Merrick - Galloway's highest summit - which we'd climbed the year before.

Once back on tarmac our speed picked up and soon we saw the mountain bikers ahead. Part competitive spirit and part desire to be eating an ice cream in the cafe saw us overtake them in a kind of team persuit postion completing the last 3 miles of single track road to the car park in just over 8 minutes.

The Big Country Trail must rank as one of the best days out I've had on the bike - certainly in recent times - and I'll look forward to re visiting the area and trying a few more of the bike routes. A big well done to the Forestry Commission for creating such good routes for cyclists!

Pete Buckley August 2009

Posted by PeteB 04:35 Archived in Scotland Tagged me scotland bicycle cycling mountain_biking Comments (0)

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